Shakespeare may have his famous Romeo and Juliet, but Portugal has its own love story that is just as passionate and far more gruesome. The tragic love story of Dom Pedro, prince of Portugal, and Dona Ines de Castro is one that has been passed down in Portuguese history and retold to me as a child repeatedly. From a very young age I was enthralled with the love story of Pedro and Ines. I can remember asking my grandmother to retell the story over and over. I would lay on the couch in my grandmother's living room with my head in her lap looking up at her intrepidly while she reenacted the lover’s tale. She would stroke my hair as she spoke tracing the contours of my face and telling me how I must be a reincarnation of Dona Ines de Castro because I looked exactly like her. How my eyes would sparkle every time I thought of perhaps being a princess and brutally murdered for a forbidden love affair.
Dom Pedro, the heir to the throne of Portugal and the son of Alfonso IV was arranged to marry Infanta Constance of Castile. When Infanta arrived to marry Pedro he was instantly captivated not with Infanta, but with her lady-in-waiting Ines Perez de Castro. Pedro and Ines fell instantly in love and continued a passionate love affair while Pedro was married to Infanta. Infanta eventually became ill and died causing the marriage to last only five years. At last Pedro and Ines could openly love each other even though they were forbidden to wed.
King Alfonso IV and certain nobles became weary of the relationship between Pedro and Ines. They feared the potential influenceof Ines' Spanish family on Pedro. After long consideration King Alfonso IV reluctantly agreed to have Ines assassinated. While Pedro was out on a hunt two nobles traveled to Pedro and Ines' palace where they murdered Ines by driving a sword through her heart. When Pedro returned he found his world turned upside down and despaired in agony with hatred for his father and a sadness over the death of his love. He vowed to one day have revenge.
After the assassination of Ines, Alfonso IV repented deeply when he found out that Pedro and Ines had already been married in secret. He grieved over the mother of his grandchildren and regretted his decision. Alfonso IV died two years later and Dom Pedro was crowned king of Portugal. Dom Pedro's heart was still bitter and he sought to get his revenge. He found and captured the two nobles that murdered Ines and killed them by ripping out and eating their hearts. He then exhumed Ines, dressing her elegantly and crowning her. Pedro placed his queen on the throne and ordered the court to pay homage to Ines by kissing her decomposed hand. Pedro then ordered the construction of two elaborate tombs for himself and Ines. The tombs were placed in the Mosteria de Santa Maria in Alcobaca and put near the alter on opposite sides of the church. On Pedro's orders the tombs were placed foot to foot so that, when the time comes, the two can rise up and see each other straight away.
When we arrived in Alcobaca I was dancing with excitement. Our driver Rui took us straight to the Mosteria de Santa Maria. The gothic monestary was elaborately decorated and had many steps leading up to the entrance.
Grandma again ranted about the steps by saying, "Oh these Portuguese must have had strong legs for all the steps they built!" We took a tour of the ancient monastery learning about the monks that use to inhabit it, while patiently saving the best part for last. Grandma however was not so patient. She repeatedly would say, "Come on, come on I want to see the tombs!"
When we felt we had seen all we could see of the monastery we made our way back to the connected church where we had entered. Grandma’s impatience was growing as she asked, "You girls done yet?! I so much want to see the tombs." I could not argue with her. I had fantasized about this day my whole life. The day that I would see the resting place of my two favorite lovers.
The church was a large cathedral that had just finished Mass minutes before our arrival to the monastery. Margot and Rachel left to go see the gardens and grandma sat down on a pew to wait for them, but I could not wait. I made my way purposefully down the aisle of the cathedral towards the alter. When I reached the alter I looked to my left and to my right and on either side of me in the wings of the church were the two lovers foot to foot. I went left and made my way to Dona Ines the one I was "reincarnated" from. Her tomb was stunningly decorated all around including a depiction of the Last Judgment Day. Margot and Rachel finally caught up to me and Margot insisted on taking pictures of me next to Ines’ tomb. Grandma continually kept exclaiming, “She looks just like her. Doesn't she look just like Dona Ines de Castro?!" After paying homage to Ines I made my way over to my "lover" Dom Pedro and was fascinated with the detail done to his tomb. A unique carving, meant to represent the Wheel of Life, was chiseled on his tomb. I rested against a column near by and looked at him longingly. This was my favorite day of the whole trip.
Leaving the cathedral and monastery our grandmother tells us, "If we don't find a restroom soon I am going to go shee shee (pee pee) right here in my panty hoes!" So off we went to find a bathroom. We walked outside and a bit around the corner to set of glass doors that looked like it could possibly lead to a restroom. The doors were locked, but on the outside of the doors we found a puzzling sign restricting pedestrians from what they could do around the cathedral. Sorry Dona Ines and Dom Pedro, no hanky panky allowed here :)
We ended our time in Alcobaca by having lunch outside in a quaint typical Portuguese restaurant. I did not eat much because I was not hungry, but grandma Margot and Rachel enjoyed and delicious meal of soup, codfish and chicken. This is also where I received my new nickname. When the waiter came to take our order he made his way around the table ending with me. He bent over slightly with his pen and pad of paper in hand and said ".....and for you small boss?" I guess I must have been tired from all the driving we had done that day because I asked my grandmother what that meant. "Boss? What does boss mean?" I asked. My sister's laughed and rolled their eyes and told me that he was speaking English. The waiter had picked up on my personality in a matter of seconds. I was indeed exactly what he had called me, a small boss. The youngest child who thinks she runs the show. My family got the biggest kick out of this and laughed about it the rest of the day.
After a miraculous day of having an out of body experience while seeing Dona Ines and being given a new nickname, we made our way to Abidos to spend the night in a new hotel.
No comments:
Post a Comment